“Bí ẩn” đầu tượng Phật Dốc 47 trên Quốc lộ 51


Dốc 47 có độ cao tính dưới dốc lên đến đỉnh là 47m, nên mới có tên là Dốc 47. Tại đây có một khúc cua khá ngặt nghèo nên thường xuyên xảy ra nhiều tai nạn giao thông thảm khốc. Phải chăng vì thế mà có người nào đó muốn dựng một bức tượng Phật trên “cung đường đen” này để cho cánh tài xế vững vàng tay lái hơn?

Nếu đi từ hướng TP.HCM, Đồng Nai về tỉnh Bà Rịa Vũng Tàu hoặc ngược lại trên quốc lộ 51, đến đoạn xã Tam Phước (bây giờ thuộc TP.Biên Hòa), sẽ gặp một khúc cua dốc rất gấp tên Dốc 47. Bạn sẽ nhìn thấy trên một quả đồi hơi cao cao, che phủ trong rừng tràm có một tượng Phật kích thước khá lớn đặt trên một cái bệ có 4 cánh như đuôi một trái pháo hỏa tiễn. Người ta gọi đó là tượng Phật dốc 47.

tuong dau phat doc 47

Tượng đầu Phật Dốc 47 trên cung đường quốc lộ 51, đoạn qua xã Tam Phước (TP.Biên Hòa, tỉnh Đồng Nai).

Tại sao đầu tượng Phật lại đặt trên một … đầu đạn?

Từ lâu, địa danh “Đầu Phật dốc 47” hay “Đầu Phật bom 47” hoặc “Phật đầu đạn dốc 47” được ghi trong lộ trình giao thông của cánh tài xế. Nhưng ít có ai thắc mắc: Tại sao lại có tượng Phật ở đó và tại sao có địa danh Dốc 47? Tại sao tượng Phật lại đặt trên một đầu đạn, lại dựng trên một quả đồi vắng vẻ, xung quanh không có một ngôi chùa nào? Ai là người xây dựng? Lý do người đó xây công trình tượng Phật “kỳ lạ” này là gì?

Trong một lần cùng hai anh bạn đồng nghiệp ghé nhà thăm cụ Đỗ Bá Nghiệp (Tư Nghiệp, 80 tuổi), nguyên Giám đốc Bảo tàng tỉnh Đồng Nai, trò chuyện về vùng đất Biên Hòa – Đồng Nai xưa, cụ Tư Nghiệp có nhắc đến địa danh Dốc 47 và tượng đầu Phật trên quả đồi. Cụ Tư Nghiệp cho rằng do ông tỉnh trưởng Long An (chế độ cũ) xây dựng nên, còn năm nào thì không rõ (?).

Lúc đó, trong đầu tôi tự dưng có nhiều thắc mắc vô cùng: Tại sao một tỉnh trưởng ở miền Tây lại lên Biên Hòa xây một bức tượng Phật với kiến trúc “lạ” như thế? Có liên quan yếu tố trấn yểm tâm linh? Và tôi có ý định muốn đến tận nơi Dốc 47 tìm hiểu về lịch sử tượng đầu Phật chỉ với vài tư liệu ít ỏi, hầu như không có trang sách nào ghi lại…

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Nhìn từ xa, bức tượng giống như là mô hình đầu Phật được đặt trên đuôi một chiếc hỏa tiễn?

Tôi quyết định đi tìm câu trả lời. May mắn có người chỉ đến ngôi chùa ở huyện Long Thành (Đồng Nai) để gặp một trưởng lão Hòa thượng trụ trì, người được xem là biết rất rõ lai lịch, nguồn gốc bức tượng. Hòa thượng năm nay 80 tuổi, rất khó tính và không bao giờ gặp người lạ. Nhưng có lẽ do…“nhân duyên”, Hòa thượng mới chịu tiếp và cung cấp nhiều thông tin mà ông biết được. Theo lời Hòa thượng thì tượng đầu Phật Dốc 47 không phải tỉnh trưởng Long An nào dựng nên mà chính là do tỉnh trưởng Biên Hòa – Lưu Yểm xây dựng (còn thời điểm xây năm nào thì Hòa thượng cũng không nhớ rõ ?!).

Năm đó, Lưu Yểm đi công tác bằng xe Jeep quân đội, khi đi ngang khu vực này, bị lực lượng cách mạng phục kích bắn một quả B41 vào xe, quả đạn đi trúng đích rơi đúng trên xe, nhưng…không nổ. Vì là tín đồ Phật giáo nên tay tỉnh trưởng này nghĩ rằng được đức Phật che chở (?!). Từ đó, mới có ý tưởng lập tượng Phật, đặt trên đỉnh đồi nơi quân giải phóng phục kích. Mô hình thiết kế phía dưới đầu Phật là cánh bom quả đạn, tượng trưng cho chiến tranh chết chóc, trên là đầu Phật đè trên cánh bom tượng trưng cho sự che chở sinh mạng. Đầu Phật được chế tác từ cơ sở làm tượng Phật nổi tiếng của ông Lê Văn Chánh (thường gọi Bảy Chánh) ở chùa Giác Hải (Sài Gòn) thời đó (bây giờ là P.12, Q.6, TP.HCM).

Tuy nhiên, khi tôi liên hệ với cơ sở làm tượng Phật Bảy Chánh (Q.6, TP.HCM) thì rất tiếc nghệ nhân Lê Văn Chánh đã mất từ lâu, cơ sở hiện tại do con cháu đời sau nối tiếp nên tất cả bản thiết kế về tượng đầu Phật Dốc 47 không còn lưu lại và cũng không có ai còn nhớ chính xác đầu Phật đó có phải do từ cơ sở Bảy Chánh tác tạo nên hay không? Còn trong cuốn “Lịch sử Đảng bộ huyện Long Thành (tỉnh Đồng Nai)” (Lưu hành nội bộ) cũng không có dòng nào nhắc đến “sự kiện” lực lượng du kích địa phương “tập kích” xe chở tỉnh trưởng Biên Hòa?

Không phải tỉnh trưởng Biên Hòa là người xây tượng?

ong sau chinh
Tác giả bài viết đang trao đổi với ông Sáu Chinh, người cho rằng không có khả năng ông Lưu Yểm xây tượng đài đầu Phật dốc 47

Tôi tìm gặp được ông Bùi Quang Thanh (tên thường gọi Sáu Chinh, 86 tuổi), trí nhớ còn minh mẫn, hiện sống ở Bến Gỗ (xã An Hòa, TP.Biên Hòa, Đồng Nai), từng có thời gian làm phụ tá tỉnh trưởng Biên Hòa. Cụ Sáu Chinh cho rằng tỉnh trưởng Biên Hòa không phải là người xây tượng Phật dốc 47. Lục lọi trí nhớ, cụ Sáu Chinh cung cấp thông tin: ông Lưu Yểm vốn là người Việt gốc Hoa, sinh năm 1928 tại Bạc Liêu. Trước 30/4/1975 ở tại số 245, đường Nguyễn Biểu (Chợ Lớn, Sài Gòn). Năm 1974, từ tỉnh Phước Long (Sông Bé cũ), ông được điều về làm tỉnh trưởng Biên Hòa.

Ngày 30/4/1975, Lưu Yểm cùng gia đình vợ con leo lên máy bay quân sự thoát khỏi Biên Hòa và sau đó định cư ở nước ngoài. Như vậy, căn cứ theo mốc thời gian ngắn từ năm 1974 – 1975, thì ông Sáu Chinh khẳng định không có khả năng ông Lưu Yểm xây tượng đài đầu Phật dốc 47. Theo ông Sáu Chinh nhớ lại thì trước khi Lưu Yểm về Biên Hòa nhậm chức thì tượng đài đầu Phật đã có ai đó xây dựng từ lâu. Có thể ông Lưu Yểm chỉ xuất tiền ra để tu bổ, chỉnh chu hoặc sửa sang lại tượng Phật mà thôi (?)

Tôi tiếp tục tìm gặp học giả Lý Việt Dũng, nhà nghiên cứu chuyên sâu về Phật học. Ông đã cùng tôi thực địa tại đồi Dốc 47. Đứng quan sát tượng Phật, ông đánh giá đây là một tác phẩm nghệ thuật Phật giáo mang đầy ý nghĩa, rất tiếc bị người đời dần quên lãng. Bằng ý kiến cá nhân, học giả Lý Việt Dũng phản bác sự ngộ nhận của nhiều người cho rằng tượng Phật đặt trên đuôi một chiếc hỏa tiễn.

tuong dau phat doc 47 2
Học giả Lý Việt Dũng đang đứng dưới chân bức tượng đầu Phật để nghiên cứu một tác phẩm nghệ thuật Phật giáo mang nhiều ý nghĩa.

Theo ông, nhìn tổng thể đó là hình ảnh cách điệu của diệu pháp tòa, tức tòa sen mà đức Phật A Di Đà ngồi trên đó thuyết pháp. Diệu pháp tòa lại được đặt trên đài có chín tầng hay chín bậc là biểu trưng cho cửu phẩm liên hoa. Còn 4 cánh tượng trưng cho 4 phương trời trong vũ trụ hoặc biểu trưng cho lòng từ bi của Phật A Di Đà đối với tứ loại chúng sinh. Qua hình tượng này, học giả Lý Việt Dũng cũng nhận định người thiết kế mô hình rất am hiểu sâu sắc về Phật pháp phái Tịnh độ tông.

Trước đây Dốc 47 có độ cao tính dưới dốc lên đến đỉnh là 47m, nên mới có tên là Dốc 47. Tại đây có một khúc cua khá ngặt nghèo nên thường xuyên xảy ra nhiều tai nạn giao thông thảm khốc. Phải chăng vì thế mà có người nào đó muốn dựng một bức tượng Phật trên “cung đường đen” này để cho cánh tài xế vững vàng tay lái hơn? Sau này, Quốc lộ 51 mở rộng và cải tạo mới hạ độ cao dốc xuống cho xe cộ dể lưu thông. Hiện nay, diện tích khoảng 1.000m2 đồi dốc 47 thuộc sự quản lý của Bộ chỉ huy quân sự tỉnh Đồng Nai và đã có một khu rừng tràm xanh mát tại đây.

Như vậy, bức tượng Phật dốc 47 nằm ở một vị trí đắc địa nhất trên tuyến quốc lộ 51 vẫn còn là sự “bí ẩn”: Ai là người xây dựng? Thời gian khởi công xây? Mục đích xây dựng để làm gì, thực vẫn chưa có đủ tư liệu để “giải mã”

tuong dau phat doc 47 3
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